Mexican Wines, a journey through the unknown north and central Mexico
Actually, one imagines Baja California as a barren desert peninsula – rugged Pacific coasts, spectacular cactus fields and inhospitable foothills of the vast Sonora Desert. The same is true for large parts of the inner Mexican states of Coahuila, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosí, Queretaro, Guanajuato and the small Aguascalientes. What they all have in common is excellent wine production, which mostly finds its buyers in the country itself and therefore rarely enjoys the attention of the international public – and quite unjustifiably so.
Baja California
The wine region Valle de Guadalupe is located in northern Baja California and is also known as the Valley of Calafia. The climate is Mediterranean with very hot, dry summers whose nights are tempered by a cooling coastal wind. The mild autumn is followed by a rainy season between November and March. So the conditions here are ideal for growing grapes, and have been for more than 100 years. There are now over 150 wineries in the valley, most of which are open all year round. In a relaxed, rustic atmosphere, you can enjoy fatastic Mexican wines with a view of the vineyards.
The wine production of Sergio Castañeda Piña and his family only began in 2010 in 14 barrels, but quickly increased due to the endless passion of the winemaker – whether Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon or Nebbiolo – international concourses regularly shower him with the highest awards. The underground bodega of Casta de Vinos on an area of 2400 m² offers the noble drops an ideal climate for maturing – and that in its natural granite, slate and clay soil. But also the Bodega Decantos, El Cielo and the famous L.A. Cetto convince the wine connoisseur with noble drops. Monte Xanic welcomes wine lovers with a wonderful view of the Valle de Guadalupe with its Mediterranean microclimate. With passion and diligence, innovative quality wines have been produced since the beginning of the 20th century, taking into account old winegrowing traditions and the use of modern technologies, which have already won many medals at international competitions. During a visit, you will learn interesting facts about the history of the Monte Xanic winery, the influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean and the unique soils of Baja California. Whether Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Petit Verdot – end the visit with a tasting of a fine drop.
With the hills of Santo Tomás, you reach the largest and one of the oldest wine-growing areas in Mexico. Shortly after the gate of the Santo Tomás winery, you will be welcomed by a bodega employee and experience the modern and extraordinary architecture of the processing facilities. Merlot is always worth a visit before the Mex 1 finally plunges into the grandiose desert landscape of the mighty peninsula.
Oasis of Coahuila
Crossing the Gulf of California, the next stop is Mexico’s oldest wine town – Parras de la Fuente is also called the “Oasis of Coahuila”, a place in the middle of the unforgiving desert of northern Mexico with a history dating back over 400 years. The surrounding mountains provide the town with almost inexhaustible water supplies, making it ideal for growing wine in combination with the dry desert climate. Casa Madero, located at the gates of the oasis, welcomes you with extensive vineyards and shady gardens. In search of gold, the conquistadors arrived in the valley of Parras in 1574; however, here there were only wild vines and the named rich freshwater springs. In 1597, Don Lorenzo received permission from the Spanish crown to produce wine and brandy, making Casa Madero the oldest bodega in all of the Americas. The Gran Reserva Malbec 2017 as well as the Cabernet Souvigno, Merlot, Tempranillo are second to none. In the meantime, Casa Madero has been joined by young wineries that come close to the established bodegas in terms of quality.
Zacatecas & Aguascalientes
Following the inner Camino Real, the attentive wine connoisseur reaches the wine regions on the border between the states of Zacatecas and Aguacalientes. The stylish Tierra Adentro winery in the Mexican state of Zacatecas has made a national and international name for itself with its Malbec, Merlot and Syrah. For 40 years, oenologist Dr. Joaquín Madero Tamargo has dedicated himself to winemaking. With great enthusiasm, well-founded knowledge and by means of the most modern technology, internationally recognised and excellent top wines are produced. Mexico’s only barrel museum also impresses with true works of art.
A little to the south, already in the state of Aguacalientes, is the small Bodega Santa Elena, whose wines, however, can be found in almost all of Mexico’s gastronomic temples. Aurelio García Herraíz, originally a chemist by profession, now devotes himself with dedication and perfection to the long winemaking tradition in the state of Aguascalientes. Together with like-minded people, the oenologist strives to create wines of unique character by constantly improving technologies and using the best grapes. During a tasting and tour with Native Trails of the winery and the vineyards, you will find a blend of tradition and modernity, which in the end, in interaction with nature, produces exquisite and unforgettable wines – be sure to ask for the Sophie Blanco! The sister winery Bodegas Origen also builds on the more than 400-year history of grape growing in Aguascalientes. Currently, young winemakers such as Pablo Alonzo Pérez are renewing the vineyards and experimenting with different grape varieties; wines of excellent quality such as the “Primus”, a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah and Cinsault, are the result. In the large barrel cellar, in addition to oak barrels, there is also a concrete egg to complement the usual ageing methods, which is better suited to micro-oxidation and excellently develops the fruit components of the vines.
Guanajuato
If you follow the winegrowers’ footsteps eastwards, you will find yourself in Guanajuato, the cradle (cuna) of Mexican independence. The Cuna de Tierra winery, which has developed from small beginnings around 1990 into a producer of top wines over the course of the 2,000s, entices you with extraordinary creations made from Cabernet Souvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, as well as an excellent Nebbiolo. When visiting the vineyards, you will learn about the influence of the soils and the special climate at an altitude of almost 2,000 metres on the maturation. The production facilities and barrels for storage are located in the new winery building, which surprises with simplicity with a certain something and has already received several architectural awards.
Querétaro
Two hours north of Mexico City we reach the Querétaros wine region. Similar to the Valle de Guadalupe, an entire region with excellent wineries is developing here. In the heart of the wine region of San Juan del Río lies one of the large bodegas of the Spanish winery Freixenet. Growing grapes above 2,000 m in extreme weather conditions (regularly more than 25°C during the day and often around 0°C at night) creates an ideal environment for excellent top wines and the well-known sparkling wines. The climatic conditions of the region are similar to those of the Mediterranean and the high quality products are comparable to the wines of the best wine regions in Europe. Enjoy the architecture in the style of a Mexican hacienda and the 25 m deep cellar vaults during a tour followed by a tasting of classic Freixenet products. In contrast to the industrial production, the winery “La Redonda” advertises the predominantly organic cultivation of 15 different grape varieties on an area of approx. 60 ha. In 1972, the founder Don Vittorio Giaginto Perencin planted the first vines here – especially Cabernet Souvignon and Shiraz are very popular with the customers.
To conclude our short wine tour, we stop at the De COTE winery. The story of the elegant and architecturally unique bodega began in 1970, when José and Ignacio Calderón decided to buy land in the fertile wine-growing region of Querétaros to plant vines at an altitude of 2,020 metres. In the meantime, more than 20 grape varieties grow on an area of more than 50 hectares – especially Sauvingon Blanc, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Souvignon – and a team of excellent winegrowers creates exquisite Mexican wines from them. Enjoy a walk through the almost garden-like vineyards and look forward to the wine tasting afterwards.
